Here in the PanAfrica! kitchen, we believe food memories shape our tastes more than any culinary rulebook ever could. And no dish proves this more than mac and cheese – particularly when it comes to the great egg debate. While we’d never judge anyone’s personal preference (to each their own), we’ll always champion the custard-style version because of one irreplaceable woman: my grandmother.
My grandmother’s mac and cheese was legendary in our family and to anyone who had the pleasure of eating at her house – a golden-crusted masterpiece with a creamy interior so velvety, it practically sighed when you spooned into it. Her secret? Perfectly beaten eggs whisked into evaporated milk, creating a rich custard that hugged every elbow macaroni like a warm embrace. That distinct texture – firm yet yielding, rich without being heavy – became my gold standard. While I’ve since learned countless variations from across the African diaspora (more on those later), my heart always circles back to that perfect balance she achieved – neither soupy nor dry, but what I now recognize as the Platonic ideal of Southern custard-style mac and cheese.
Why Eggs? A Defense of the Custard Tradition
My grandmother understood what modern food science now confirms: eggs are transformative in baked mac and cheese. Here’s why this technique has endured for generations:
- Structural Poetry
That magical texture I grew up loving? It comes from eggs forming a delicate protein network during baking – what chefs call a “custard set.” Unlike roux-based versions that can separate when cooled, egg-enriched mac maintains its lush consistency from first serving to next-day leftovers (on the rare occasion we had anything left). - Flavor Amplification
While eggs don’t overpower the cheese, they provide a subtle savory depth. The Maillard reaction from baking creates complex flavor compounds that simple starch-thickened versions can’t match. - Cultural Continuity
This method connects directly to West African custard techniques used in dishes like Ghana’s “telele” (steamed corn pudding) – a reminder that our “Southern” traditions have always been diasporic.
Pro Tip: For my grandmother’s signature texture, try these tips:
- Use room temperature eggs
- Temper them with warm dairy (never add cold eggs to hot pasta!)
- Let the baked dish rest 15 minutes before serving
Egg-Free Respect: Other Valid Paths to Deliciousness
While my personal allegiance is clear, I’ve eaten enough life-changing mac and cheese to know eggs aren’t mandatory. Some stellar alternatives:
- The Roux Method: Many Black Southern families swear by a flour-butter roux base (my Aunt Lela’s version is spectacular)
- Evaporated Milk Magic: The proteins in evaporated milk prevent cheese separation without eggs
- Vegan Innovations: Cashew cream or pureed squash can create amazing dairy-free “custard”
What matters most isn’t the technique, but the love and intentionality behind it – something my grandmother taught me long before I understood food chemistry.
Your Turn at the Table
I’d love to hear your mac and cheese stories:
- Did your family use eggs or avoid them?
- Any secret ingredients (my grandmother added a pinch of nutmeg)?
- Have you ever converted someone to your preferred style?
Share your memories in the comments – let’s celebrate all the ways we keep this tradition alive. And if you’ve never tried the custard-style version… well, Mama Jean would say you’re missing out, but she’d still save you a heaping portion.
P.S. For those wanting to taste that childhood magic: [Link to my grandmother’s custard-style recipe with modern measurements]
